FAQ'S

WHAT ARE YOUR LEAD TIMES?

Lead times vary according to how many individual patterns you require and the details included in each, such as whether they are fully lined, have multiple pockets or other features and the format you require them in. I can help you with range planning in order to meet your deadlines.

For further details on specific lead times, get in touch via email here

DO YOU CREATE CHILDREN'S WEAR PATTERNS?

I can create patterns for children's clothes. Children's wear patterns vary greatly from adult patterns.

Get in touch to discuss your project

DO YOU HAVE A PRICE LIST?

Certainly. You can find a guide to prices for pattern cutting, blocks and toile making, digitizing and other price information here

WHAT IS A PATTERN?

In garment making, a pattern is a two-dimensional template, usually drawn or printed onto paper, that serves as a blueprint for cutting and constructing a garment.

Patterns are typically created using a basic block of the required size and shape as a starting point, with various fitting details such as seams and darts incorporated to achieve the desired shape silhouette.

Different elements are unique to each individual design, including seams, darts, tucks, pockets, and other elements that contribute to the overall construction and aesthetics of the garment.

Pockets are functional elements that provide a place to store small items. They can be incorporated into the garment design in various ways, such as patch pockets, inseam pockets, or welt pockets.

Other elements like pleats, gathers, collars, cuffs, and trims also contribute to the construction and aesthetics of the garment. These elements add detail, texture, and visual interest to the design.

Overall, the combination of these elements in a pattern helps create the desired shape, fit, and style of the garment, making it unique to each individual design.

Seam allowances are added to a pattern at the appropriate width that is contingent upon the specific seam required and the machinery used to construct it. For instance, French seams that provide a neatened finish to the inside of a garment usually seen on higher-priced garments or those using fabrics that might fray, for example, require a different allowance to that of a flat-locked seam or seam stitched using a 5-thread machine more commonly seen in mass-produced garments.

Different finishes are considered during the pattern drafting process, such as hem turnings and top-stitch details. These can include felled, pin or foot-stitched hems and twin-needle or cover-stitched seams. Each finish requires a different hem allowance or seam width.

The market sector that each brand aim's for has influence on the pattern being drafted. A bespoke or custom-made pattern may have wider seams to allow for tor personalised fitting while a mass produced

Once the initial pattern, known as a first fit pattern, is created based on standard or personal body measurements, it is made into a prototype sample garment using a fabric called calico or muslin. This sample garment, often referred to as a toile, is then fitted on a model or dress form to assess the fit and overall look.

After the fitting process, adjustments are made to the toile and the pattern is updated accordingly. This iterative process may involve creating a series of patterns and conducting multiple fittings to achieve the desired fit and design. The goal is to refine the pattern until it meets the desired specifications and is approved for production.

Once the final pattern is approved, it serves as the basis for creating the garment in various sizes and quantities during the production phase.

WHAT IS A PATTERN?

In fashion and garment making, a pattern refers to a template comprised of different pieces that are used as a guide for cutting and assembling fabric pieces to create a garment. It serves as a blueprint for the construction of a specific design and provides instructions on how to cut the fabric, where to sew or stitch, and how the garment pieces fit together.

A pattern typically consists of a series of lines, shapes, and markings that represent the various parts of a garment, such as the front and back panels, sleeves, collar, pockets, and any other design elements. It includes all the necessary measurements and information required to accurately reproduce the garment, such as seam allowances, cutting instructions, balance marks, darts, pleats, and notches.

Pattern making is an essential step in the garment production process. It can be done by hand, using tools like rulers, curves, and pattern drafting paper, or with the help of computer software. The pattern is traced or transferred onto the fabric, and then the fabric pieces are cut out and sewn together according to the instructions provided by the pattern.

Patterns can be created for a wide range of garments, including dresses, tops, pants, skirts, jackets, and more.

In fashion and garment making, a pattern is a flat template, generally developed using a basic block, that is created to a specific design silhouette with fitting and styling details such as seams, darts, tucks, folds, pockets etc. Seam allowances are added in differing widths according to the type of seams and hems such as 5 thread and flat locked seams, French seams, lapped or top-stitched and so on.

In fashion and garment making, a pattern is a flat template, generally developed from a basic block, that is created to a specific design silhouette with fitting and styling details such as seams, darts, tucks, pockets etc. Seam allowances are added in differing widths according to the type of seams and hems such as

A first fit pattern is created to a set of standard or personal body measurements cut and made up into a calico toile or prototype sample garment. After fitting, any adjustments are made and an updated pattern is formed. The process sometimes involves a series of patterns and fittings to achieve a final pattern that is approved and ready for proceeding into production.

WHAT IS A BLOCK?

A Block (master block or Sloper) is a basic pattern template, drafted to a specific set of standard body measurements, or personal size and specification.

Blocks are used as a template from which new patterns are created and developed into different styles.

Different base blocks are created for women's, men's and children's garments including a bodice block, skirt block, trouser block, jacket block, jersey stretch blocks.

Blocks are created Nett (without seam allowance) and do not include details such as as pockets.

WHAT IS GRADING?

Grading is the process by which the base size (the original pattern created in the required size) is then translated into a complete range of sizes individual to each brand or customer.

WHAT IS A TOILE?

A toile is a prototype garment, made either in calico or a fabric with the same qualities and handle as the final garment fabric. A toile is used for fitting and for applying design details such as pocket or button positions.

Toiles can be cut, pinned, drawn onto and re-worked to achieve the required look and design.

WHAT IS A TECH PACK?

A Tech Pack is a document created to accompany a pattern, containing technical information, including a detailed drawing, measurement charts and garment construction instructions regarding the production and manufacture of a garment.

Together with a toile or prototype garment, tech packs are given to a garment manufacturer to follow during the production process.

WHAT IS A PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE?

A pre-production sample is made up, usually by the nominated factory, in the correct fabric with all relevant trimmings, stitching details, linings and finished to the standard as required by the brand, company or customer.

WHAT DOES CMT MEAN?

CMT is the term used to describe Cut, Make and Trim which is the complete process of manufacturing garments.

As part of the costing procedure, factories are required to provide CMT prices to enable brands or companies calculate their manufacturing costs.

WHAT IS BIAS CUTTING?

Bias cutting (also known as cutting on the cross) is a method of pattern cutting that uses the diagonal fabric grain that runs at a 45% angle to the warp and weft grains.

Pioneered in the early 1920's by French designer Madeleine Vionnet, bias cutting allows the fabric to drape around the body, eliminating the need for multiple darts or seams to achieve a close fit.